![]() Remember this steel will get hard when you heat it up, this will make it hard or impossible to file on. Also keep it cool using water or compressed air. Lock the blank down in a vice and use a Dremel tool w/ heavy duty cutting heads to cut the metal away, don’t try to cut on the lines, stay back we’ll clean it up later with a bastard. Make the actual top trip arm long, this will be adjusted in a later step.ģ. Use a caliper to measure your old trip or use blueprints to get the measurements. 1/8) and its spring retention hole (5/32)Ģ. Vice (I prefer a small 3” vice for this kind of work)ĭremel tool w/ heavy duty cutting wheels (I also used a carbide burr)īits to match your RDIAS’s pivot pin hole (prob. Here is a photo of my beat up stainless trip, as you can see the bottom of my M16 BCGs dug into the top of the trip. O1 can be ordered online in cold-rolled ¼”x1”x however long you want bars. ![]() The blanks I’m using were cut for me to ¼”x1”x1” by a local member on this board who was kind enough to give me his scrap steel. My sear came with a stainless steel trip and I’ve made one out of mild steel, both only lasted a few thousand rounds before they were pretty beat up and would no longer run consistently. To make these trips I used O1 tool steel. It’s not fast and it’s not perfect but it allows the average Joe to keep his RDIAS running with not much more than basic hand tools.ĪTTENTION: While the trip is not a machine gun in itself producing one without owning a legal Auto Sear may be perceived as constructive content by the alphabet agencies. This process takes me about 4 hours from beginning to end the first time, slightly faster after that. This is a demonstration of the methods I used to fabricate a new trip for my Registered Drop In Auto Sear (RDIAS) using mostly hand tools.
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